Surfing surface gravity waves

Nick Pizzo

doi:10.1017/jfm.2017.314

2017-06-16

PRE

Nick Pizzo *

DOI：10.1017/jfm.2017.314

原文链接

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摘要

En 中文

A simple criterion for water particles to surf an underlying surface gravity wave is presented. It is found that particles travelling near the phase speed of the wave, in a geometrically confined region on the forward face of the crest, increase in speed. The criterion is derived using the equation of John (Commun. Pure Appl. Maths, vol. 6, 1953, pp. 497-503) for the motion of a zero-stress free surface under the action of gravity. As an example, a breaking water wave is theoretically and numerically examined. Implications for upper-ocean processes, for both shallow-and deep-water waves, are discussed.

Keyword:

air/sea interactions

surface gravity waves

wave breaking

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期刊

Journal of Fluid Mechanics

IF:

3.9

论文数:

2.0W

被引数:

9.4W

机构

University of California System

学者数:

37.7W

论文数: 33.8W

被引数: 6.6K

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